When growing climbing plants it is important
to choose a support that will easily accommodate the eventual height, spread and vigor of
the plant. A support that will not match the size and strength of the climber may
eventually collapse!! The three main types of support used for climbers are wooden or
plastic trellis panels, wire or plastic mesh, and wires which are often plastic covered.
Horticultural string may also be used for herbaceous climbers if it is replaced each year.
This can be useful for annuals climbers.
A trellis is the best support for all twining climbers, and may be used for scramblers if
they are tied in. Wires or mesh are good for tendril climbers.
When growing plants against a flat, free-standing trellis or over a pillar, one must
remember that climbers grow toward the light, and flower on one side of the support only.
Therefore, plants should always be positioned to provide their display where they will be
most prominent.
To allow air to circulate freely, a trellis should be fixed so that it is held slightly
away from the wall or fence.
Wires can be stretched horizontally or vertically between rustproof nails, and as with the
trellis, wires should be held some 5 centimetres from the surface of the wall or fence,
and must be kept taut to prevent sagging.
Climbing plants are usually sold container-grown. Choose a plant with a well-balanced
framework of strong shoots, and reject any that appear weak. Plant in the spring when the
soil is warming up, so the plants are well-established before their first winter. Walls
and fences create their own rain shadow, so plants that are to be trained against them
should be planted at least 45 centimetres from them. In this way, once established, they
normally receive sufficient rain to grow without additional water.
Before planting remove all weeds. Then dig in some coarse organic material; this will
improve water retentiveness and fertility of sandy soils, and lighten the texture of heavy
clay soils. Addition of a slow-release fertilizer to the soil is also recommended. The
planting hole should be at least twice the diameter of the container in which the climber
was grown, if possible. This will provide the roots with ample room to spread in the
prepared soil.
Before removing the plant from the container, water it well, and then leave to drain for
about an hour. Then invert the pot, taking care to support the plant as it slides out. If
any roots have begun to curl around the inside of the pot, gently tease them out. Any dead
or damaged or protruding roots should be cut back to the perimeter of the rootball.
Now we are at the point of placing the plant in the prepared hole. The plant should be
positioned so that the top of the rootball is just level with the surrounding soil. It is
advisable to plant Clematis more deeply, however.
Fill the hole with soil, then firm the plant in and water well. Insert stakes at the base
of the plant, and secure them to the trellis or other form of support. Try to fan out the
main shoots of the plant and tie them individually to the stakes and to the support
itself. But in doing so be careful not to damage any of the shoots.
Climbers that attach with tendrils readily attach to a support. Their shoots, however, may
require some guidance in the beginning, and they may need tying to the support until they
become firmly established. Twining climbing plants soon fasten their shoots to a support
but also may require tying initially.
Water the newly planted climbing plant thoroughly, then perhaps cover the soil around the
plant with a layer of mulch. This is beneficial to the roots because moisture is retained.
This gives the roots a better chance of establishing themselves. The addition of mulch
will also help keep down the growth of any weeds that would compete with the climbing
plant for both moisture and nutrients.
|
