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individual tree's health and longevity, and
so are the subjects of this article.
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Chose a Tree Adapted to Your Site:
Use all available resources to make a list of trees adapted to your area. Many books with
general information about tree adaptation are available at libraries. Also, check with
your cooperative extension agent, master gardener or parks department for a list a locally
adapted trees. Factors to consider include tree size, shape and growth rate; whether it is
deciduous or evergreen; climate adaptation; soil and water requirements, pest problems and
the amount of litter produced. Naturally, a tree's ornamental characteristics -- flowers,
fall color, foliage texture, and other features are also important.
Once you have a list of candidates, check it with advisors at local nurseries. Your list
will narrow quickly, and you can use factors such as flowers, flowering time or fall color
to make the final selection. Finally, |
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locate in your area a
mature tree of the species you think you want and ask the owners their opinion about it.
If the tree you chose is not readily available, don't hesitate to place a special order
for it, or to order it from a mail order supplier. It is more important to get a healthy
specimen of the right tree than to plant right away.
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Choose a Healthy Tree:
It pays to be a smart shopper when buying trees. As hard as most nurseries and garden
centers try to properly care for their plants, the longer a tree has been in the nursery,
the greater the chance for something to go wrong. A missed watering here, not enough
fertilizer there, and a tree will suffer. Such trees are likely to grow slowly or poorly
once they're planted in the landscape.
Trees are sold three ways: bare-root, balled & burlapped (B&B) and in containers.
What these plants look like and brief descriptions of the advantages and disadvantages of
each is shown and explained below.
Examine a tree carefully before buying. The largest individuals of a group may be too
large for its root-ball. The smallest trees of a group may be stunted from some type of
stress. In general, select a tree of modest proportions. Look for trees with a balanced
canopy and evenly spaced branches extending out in all directions. It is best if branches
are distributed along the entire length of the trunk.
The trunks of some trees have been headed which causes several branches to grow from just
below the cut. Such a tree may appear attractive and in good proportion, but for
large-growing trees the branches may be too low and weakly attached unless most are pruned
out.
Foliage growth along the lower trunk contributes to its strength. The trunk should be
straight and evenly tapered from top to bottom. Ideally, the tree should be able to stand
up by itself without staking. If not, it will require staking for a longer time after
planting.
Avoid trees with broken branches, wounds on the trunk, poorly colored foliage, obvious
signs of insects or disease or if last season's growth was less than six inches.
If you can't plant as soon as you get your tree home, make sure you take care of them
until you can. Temporarily store all types of young trees in a shady location. Partially
bury the roots of bare-root trees by digging a shallow trench, placing the roots in the
trench and covering them with moist soil or organic matter. Take care to ensure that the
root-balls of B&B and container trees don't dry out.
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Check Drainage:
Especially if you suspect drainage problems, dig a test hole near the tree's site a few
days or weeks before planting. Fill the hole with water, let it drain, then fill it again.
Time how quickly the water drains. If it is less than 1-inch per hour, or if it hasn't
drained completely in 24 hours, you have a drainage problem. Solutions include planting
elsewhere, planting in raised beds or mounds, or installing a drainage system (consult a
landscape contractor). You may be able to improve the drainage by drilling through the
hardpan in the bottom of the hole. Ask your county cooperative extension office or nursery
to find out about local soil conditions and probable depth and thickness of the hardpan.
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Planting Steps:
How to Plant Bare-root:
Set bare-root trees atop a small mound of soil in the center of the planting hole and
spread roots down and away without unduly bending them. Identify original planting depth
by finding color change from dark to light as you move down the trunk towards the roots.
If the tree is grafted, position the inside of the curve of the graft union away from the
afternoon sun.
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How to Plant B&B:
Handle the root-ball carefully so it doesn't break or crack. Lift soil ball and position
in center of planting hole. Gently tamp to remove air pockets as you fill. Once stabilized
with backfill, remove burlap. Continue backfilling and watering to settle soil. Don't
cover top of root-ball with backfill because it could prevent water from entering.
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How to Plant Container:
Lift out of container prior to setting root-ball in hole. Eliminate circling roots by
laying root-ball on its side and cutting through them with shears. Don't cover top of
root-ball with backfill because it could prevent water from entering.
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Water After Planting:
Create a watering basin at least 4 to 6 to inches high just outside the root-ball. Fill it
with water, let it drain, and repeat. Recheck the planting depth. If the tree has settled
below the surrounding soil level, it should be raised. For bare-root trees gently pull up
on the lower trunk. For container or balled & burlapped trees, carefully push a shovel
under the root-ball and pry it upward while lifting up on the lower trunk. In each case,
moist soil will settle under the roots and raise the planting depth.
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Stake if Necessary, and Mulch:
A tree with a strong trunk stands on its own without staking. However, if the tree was
staked in the nursery or if you are planting in a windy location, proper staking will
support the tree during its first years in the ground. Drive in two stakes, one on each
side of the tree and just outside the root-ball. Position the stakes so that a line drawn
between them is perpendicular to the strongest prevailing wind when the tree is in leaf.
Tie the tree to the stakes with wide flexible ties. Determine how high to attach the ties
by running your hand up the trunk from the base. The minimum height at which the top of
the tree remains upright is where to secure the ties. Use wide ties to reduce damage to
the trunk, and don't tie the tree too tight. A tree that can sway somewhat in the wind
will develop a stronger trunk.
Apply 3- to 4-inches of organic mulch around the base of the tree to conserve moisture and
reduce weeds. Keep it at least 6 inches away from the trunk.
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After Planting:
Watering:
Bare-root trees to not need to be watered again until two to four weeks after growth
resumes. Container and B&B trees need regular watering until their roots grow into
surrounding soil. During hot weather, these trees may need to be watered every two to
three days to keep the root-ball moist. Occasionally wetting the soil outside the basin
will ensure roots develop into the surrounding soil. Expand the basin as the tree grows.
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Pruning :
Most new trees need no pruning the first season other than removing broken branches.
Pruning may reduce total growth of a young tree. These cautions noted, if large,
vigorously growing branches are too low or competitive with more desirably placed
branches, you can safely cut them back. This preserves some foliage but reduces
competition. Eventually they can be removed.
Pinch out the tips of vigorous growth in order to stimulate side branching. If the leader
is growing vigorously and no laterals are forming at a height you would like, pinch out an
inch of the tip growth when it is at the height you would like a permanent branch. Several
shoots will grow from below the pinch. When the new shoots are 3- to 4-inches long, select
the most vigorous (hopefully the top one) for the leader and pinch back the other shoots.
If growth is vigorous, this can be repeated a couple of more times allowing two or three
main branches to be selected the first growing season.
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Fertilizer:
If young trees are growing slowly and have poorly colored foliage, they may benefit from
adding a nitrogen fertilizer to the watering basin. Remove support stakes soon after the
tree can stand on its own.
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