The beach itself is nothing special, with
steeply shelving sand, but is more than large enough to accommodate the huge numbers of
high-season visitors.
To escape the hawkers, head fifteen minutes or so south of the main beachfront area,
towards the rows of olf wooden boats moored below the dunes. In this virtually hawker-free
zone, one'll only come across teams of villagers hauling in hand nets at high tide or
fishermen fixing their tack under bamboo sun shakes.
HOW TO GET THERE
Road: Buses from Mapusa and Panjim pull in at the small bus stand cum Market Square in the
centre of Calangute. Some continue to Baga, stopping at the crossroads behind the beach en
route. Get off here if one can, as it's closer to most of the hotels.
WHERE TO STAY
Calangute is chock-full of places to stay. Demand only outstrips supply in the
Christmas - New Year high season, and at Diwali. Most of the inexpensive accommodation
consists of small rooms in family homes, or in concrete annexes tacked onto the backs of
houses. The top hotels are nearly all gleaming white, exclusive villa complexes with
pools, and direct beach access.
EATING OUT
Calangute's bars and restaurants are mainly grouped around the entrance to the
beach and along the Baga road. As with most Goan resorts, the accent is firmly on seafood,
though many places tack on a few token vegetarian dishes. Western breakfasts also feature
prominently.
NIGHTLIFE
Thanks to repeated crackdowns by the Goan police on parties and loud music,
Calangute's nightlife is surprisingly tame. All but a handful of the bars wind up by 10.00
pm. One notable exception is Tito's at the Baga end of the beach, which stays open until
11.00 pm off-season and into the small hours in late December and January.
Unfortunately, the only other places that consistently stay open through the night are a
couple of dull hippy hang-outs in the woods to the south of the beach road; Pete's Bar, a
perennial favourite next door to Angela P. Fernandes, is generally the most lively,
offering affordable drinks, backgammon sets and relentless reggae. Further afield, Bob's
Inn, between Calangute and Candolim, is another popular bar, famed less for its court
around a large table in the front bar.
A Taste Of Indian Heritage
Finally, don't miss the chance to sample some real Indian culture while you are in
Calangute. The Ekrkar Art Gallery, in Gaura Vaddo, at the south end of town, hosts
evenings of classical music and dance every Tuesday and complete with incense and
evocative candlelight. The recitals, performed by students and teachers from Panjim's Kala
Academy, are kept comfortably short for the benefit of Western visitors, and are preceded
by a short introductory talk. Tickets are available in advance or at the door.
Note: Wherever one goes, though, remember that Calangute's no nudism rule
is for real and enforced by special police patrols; this includes topless bathing.
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