Ponda can be described
as the Hindu heart of Goa. It is famous for the five important temples that are situated
around the town, and also has the largest mosque in Goa. Most of these temples look
relatively new as they have been restored after being destroyed by the Portuguese. That
explains why there are no temples around the coast, which was the prime territory of the
Portuguese. Ponda is also an important transport link.
Safa Mosque
Adil Shah constructed the Safa Mosque (also known as Safa Shahouri Masjid) in
1560. The architectural style of the mosque is predominantly Goan, with the exception of
the arches that indicate a distinct Bijapuri influence. The mosque has a beautiful
backdrop of wooded low hills that rise in the background.
TEMPLES AROUND PONDA
Scattered among the lush valleys and forests around Ponda are a dozen or so Hindu temples
founded during the 17th centuries, when this hilly region was a Christian free haven for
Hindus fleeing persecution by the Portuguese. Although the temples themselves are fairly
modern by Indian standards, their deities are ancient and held in high esteem by both
local people and thousands of pilgrims from Maharashtra and Karnataka.
The temples are concentrated in two main clusters: the first to the north of Ponda, on the
busy NH4, and the second deep in the countryside, around 5 km west of the town. Most
people only manage the Shri Manguesh and Shri Mahalsa, between the villages of Mardol and
Priol. Among the most interesting temples in the state, they lie just a stone's throw from
the main highway and are passed by regular buses between Panjim and Margao via Ponda. The
others are farther off the beaten track, although they are not hard to find on motorbikes:
locals will wave you in the right direction if you get lost.
Sri Mangesh Temple
The 18th century, Sri (also spelt as Shri) Mangesh (also spelt as Manguesh)
Temple, lies on the north west of Ponda in Priol. Considered to be the most important
temple in Goa, it belongs to the typical Goan Hindu temple style of architecture, which is
a curious mix of the Hindu and Portuguese style. This picturesque little temple is built
on a hilltop amidst sprawling farmlands. The temple has shrines of Parvati (consort of
Shiva - Destroyer of the Universe) and Ganesha (the elephant-god of Prosperity and
Wisdom). A beautiful seven-storeyed "Deepstambha" (lamp tower), typical of Goan
temple architecture, stands in the temple complex.
Mahalasa Narayani Temple
2-km from the Shri Mangesh Temple, is the Mahalsa Narayani Temple. The Vishnu
(Preserver of the Universe) Temple is known for the 'Garuda' pillar (the half-man
half-eagle vehicle of Lord Vishnu), which stands on the back of a turtle with Garuda
perched on top of it. The temple also has a "Deepstambha", and finely carved
columns depicting the ten incarnations of Lord Vishnu.
Nagesh Temple
The Nagesh Temple is situated 4-km west of Ponda. 'Nagesh' (also spelt as
Naguesh) or the 'God of Serpents' refers to Lord Shiva (Destroyer of the Universe). The
temple was built in 1413. The 'Mandapa' (an assembly hall, generally pillared, preceding
the sanctum sanatorium) has woodcarvings that narrate stories from the Hindu epics -
'Ramayana' and 'Mahabharata'. The temple compound also houses a five-storeyed
"Deepstambha". Not far from the Nagesh Temple, is located the Mahalakshmi
Temple, dedicated to Goddess Durga (the Goddess of War). According to the date inscribed
in Marathi on the temple, the monument could have been built in 1413.
Shantadurga Temple
Set amidst tranquill forests and hills, the Shantadurga Temple lies 3-km from
Ponda in Queula. Shantadurga, one of the consorts of Shiva, is a form of Durga (the
Goddess of War) and the Goddess of Peace. Legend has it that once, the Destroyer and the
Preserver had a mammoth fight that plunged the entire universe into chaos. Shantadurga
stepped in as the arbitrator and succeeded in reconciling the warring parties, thus saving
the universe from eternal doom. Hence, she stands in the temple shrine in between Lord
Shiva and Lord Vishnu (Preserver of the Universe) as a symbol of peace.
The Shantadurga Temple was built in 1738, and is the biggest temple in Goa. A distinctive
six-storeyed Deepstambha and 'Ratha' (chariot) with some gilt work adorn the temple
grounds. It is interesting to note that amongst some other features of the temple, the
dome shows a definite influence of Church architecture.
HOW TO GET THERE
Road: Ponda is served by regular buses from Panjim and Margao, and lies
on the main route east to Karnataka. The Kadamba Bus Stand is on the main square, next to
the auto-rickshaw rank.
WHERE TO STAY
There are plenty of places to stay over here. Best of the budget lodges are situated at
the Belgaum Road, which has large, clean en suite rooms. More upmarket hotels are situated
4-km northwest on the NH-4 at Farmagudi. However, the best mid-range deal within striking
distance of Ponda has to be GTDC's Tourist cottages, also at Farmagudi, stacked up the
side of a steep hill overlooking the highway, with spacious and clean en suite chalets,
and a small terrace restaurant serving a standard menu of spicy mixed cuisine.
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